Hünkâr Beğendi — ‘the sultan’s delight’: beef over roasted eggplant purée

Hünkâr Beğendi, which translates as ‘the sultan liked it,’ was born in the kitchens of the Ottoman palace in the 19th century and is today one of Turkey’s most beloved dishes. Its secret is the contrast between the tender meat in tomato sauce and the aromatic purée of flame-roasted eggplant, blended with milk, butter and cheese.

Ingredients (for 4–6 people)
For the meat:
– 600 g beef (or lamb), cut into medium pieces
– 1 large onion, finely chopped
– 2 garlic cloves, minced
– 2 green peppers (sivri biber), sliced
– 2 ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 200 g canned tomatoes
– 1 tablespoon tomato paste
– 400 ml hot water or meat stock
– 2 tablespoons olive oil
– Salt, black pepper, oregano or thyme

For the eggplant purée (beğendi):
– 3 large eggplants
– 50 g butter
– 2 tablespoons flour
– 400 ml warm milk
– 100 g grated kaşar cheese (or gouda/cheddar)
– Salt, black pepper, a pinch of nutmeg
– Fresh parsley for garnish

Preparation:
1. Pierce the eggplants with a fork and roast them over direct flame (or in the oven at 220°C) until the skin is charred and the flesh is soft, about 25–30 minutes. Let them cool slightly, remove the skin and chop the flesh finely; rinse with lemon water to keep it from darkening.
2. In a deep pot, brown the meat pieces in olive oil until golden on all sides. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for 3–4 minutes.
3. Add the peppers, tomato paste and chopped tomatoes; sauté for 5 minutes. Pour in the hot water, salt, pepper and herbs, lower the heat and simmer slowly for about 1 hour, until the meat is tender.
4. For the purée: melt the butter, add the flour and sauté for 1–2 minutes. Pour in the warm milk, stirring constantly, until it thickens like cream. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg.
5. Add the roasted eggplant flesh and the grated cheese; stir for 2 minutes until the cheese melts and the purée turns creamy.
6. Spread the purée on warm plates, spoon the meat in sauce on top and garnish with fresh parsley. Serve hot, accompanied by rice pilaf or fresh bread.

Prep time: ~20 minutes. Cook time: ~1 hour 20 minutes. Servings: 4–6.